Re-housing a Gl.inet Beryl AX router

A while back I made a dedicated mounting option for use on set for the Gl.iNet Beryl and Slate travel routers and wrote about the benefits of having a dedicated router on set. Since then, it's inspired a others to make clones. While the design I came up with is great for most users I was looking for a way to make it work better for my needs. I'd seen others re-house other travel routers in the past and Rencher Industries has had a re-housed Gl.iNet for years. Well, I finally found a bit of time to dedicate to my own project and tore open the router.

Once inside I was surprised to see not just the two moveable antenna but a 3rd integrated into the case. Other than that it's very straight forward with 4 screws holding the PCBA to the housing. 

Here's the layout of the board inside

After I saw what I was dealing with I jumped into CAD and came up with my solution. 

The main goals were:

  • Maintain access the I/O.
  • No external power cabling.
  • Integrated 1/4-20 mount.
  • Maintain airflow. 
  • Keep it simple. 

It was very important to me that it be powered directly via the USB-C port with minimal soldering. (I had destroyed routers in the past attempting power them in different ways due to my poor soldering skills.) I wanted no outside power cabling so I could just attach a battery, it would start-up and go. I chose to go with a v-mount option for simplicity but the same could have been done with an NP-F battery.

One thing to note, is the way I got power the router board isn't ideal but it is the easiest solution I could find that didn't risk damaging the router while attempting to solder a new power input.

Parts used:


Disclaimer: If you attempt this project you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage to hardware, injury to yourself or anyone else associated with this modification.

The two printed parts take about 2.5hr to print in PETG-CF on a Bambu X1C. PETG-CF is more than capable material for the job. If you don't have a printer try a service like CraftCloud to have prints made. (use referral code REFG5NAV0O7)

Assembly is straightforward. However, squeezing everything into place can take a little persuasion at some points, just be patient.

  • Install the heat set inserts into the housing.
  • Trim a few inches off the red/black wires on the mini v-mount plate and solder them to the +(red) and -(black) on the USB-C PD board.
  • Trim off the nubs from the transformer on the bottom of the USB-C PD board.
  • Wrap the back of the USB-C PD board and solder connections with kapton tape.
  • Attach the USB cable to the router board.
  • Attach the SMA-IPEX cables to the router board.
  • Insert the router into the housing and feed the USB cable under the board out the opening in the housing. Attach with 2x m5x10 screws.
  • Insert the SMA fittings into the 3 holes.  (placement isn't important, can be a bit tricky to align everything I've added a bit more clearance in the final files)
  • Put the lid on and attach with the 2x M3x8 stainless button head screws.
  • Connect the USB-C cable to the USB-C PD board. 
  • Neatly place USB-C PD board and the wires in the open area in the housing behind the v-mount battery plate, be sure none are pinched. Attach to the housing with 4x m3x8 socket head screws.

Now you're done. Slap a battery on there. Attach your favorite quick release or a stand mount and you're ready to rock. 




I also added a few finishing touches to the housing with my laser to make sure I don't forget what each port does or the management IP address.



The finished product with a detachable stand mount.

In closing, I have to make a few things clear:

  • I will not modify or print the files for anyone.
  • I will not make another version for any other router.
  • I will not provide any support or answer technical questions regarding this project. 

Support the Field Guide

If you found this or other posts helpful, please consider supporting below.

Buy me a coffee PayPal Venmo